Spas (spahs) is a creamy, tart, filling and soup served warm in the winter and chilled during summer months. This soup, sometimes called tahnabour or madzoon abour, is classic Armenian cuisine. Spas (yogurt soup with grains and herbs) is made with yogurt and wheat grain (dzedzadz is the name of the Armenian grain) and seasoned with mint or cilantro. In a mountainous country with harsh winters, most rural homes keep their cupboards well-stocked with dried buttermilk and grains.
"I’ll have the spas" is what I frequently said when we went out for lunch in Armenia. There is an Armenian saying: Lentil soups are for fasting days and yogurt soups are for feasting days. All I can say is that I did a lot of feasting when I was in Armenia, because I [heart] spas.
Making spas makes sense—it’s an ancient comfort food. Cook wheat in 4 cups of water or broth until tender. Blend yogurt, water, egg and flour with a beater. Cook until it boils, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Add salt, cooked wheat and remove from heat. Saute onion in butter. Add mint and parsley. Combine with soup. Simmer five minutes.
